Turbans

The journey to document turbans and the men that wear them, continues. This year I had the opportunity to photograph a different group of men and their portraits bring dimension to the story. The goal of a published book remains alive…

Rajasthan, the land of kings, is the story of warriors. Their chivalry, romance, glory and tragedy play out in fairy tale proportions. The turbans of Rajasthan have become a symbol of this by-gone era. They are the most colorful and impressive in all of the India. The Rajput community started the use of turbans centuries ago. Today, a confederation of princely states, Rajasthan hangs tightly on to its traditions.

The Rajasthani turban is commonly called the Saffa. The word specifically refers to the headdress that is worn by men and needs to be manually tied. It will vary by caste, class, religion and region. It is said that the style (shape, size and color) of the turban changes with every 15 km you travel within the boundaries of Rajasthan. Each color has its own importance and significance. Ochre is the color of the mendicant, while saffron is commonly worn for weddings. Immediate family members wear a white turban for funeral processions. Pink (associated with spring) is often worn during the spring season or for marriage ceremonies, etc.

Each caste has their own distinguishing colors, by which they are recognized. Shepherds wear red turbans. The Bishnois, who are a nomadic shepherd tribe and also are environmental conservationists, always wear white turbans while other tribal communities wear printed turbans. The turban also serves practical functions like protection from the elements, used as a pillow, blanket or towel. When unravelled, as a rope tied to a bucket to draw water from the well.

A Saffa is a symbol of honour and respect. The wearing of turbans, even in traditional Rajasthan, is on the decline. Turbans remain a constant in villages but in the cities of Rajasthan with every visit I see fewer turbans. As the ancient traditions leave us and succumb to modernity, we are all diminished.

The 21st century is running a marathon against many cultures. The turban story is just one of many such stories.